For OTC 6575 Hub Grappler Kit Front Rear Wheel Hub and Bearing Removal Installer
6575 Hub Grappler Kit Universal for Vehicle Wheel Hub and Bearing Removal & Installation. -- This Hub Grappler Kit, compatible with OTC 6575.
Six adapters increase application coverage up to 2009 model year. Also includes tie rod/ball joint tool and two compatible with Ford axle installers. -- This 6575 tool is a complete solution for that servicing wheel hubs and bearings on vehicle without removing the steering components or knuckle, eliminates unnecessary alignments or the use of a shop press.
3/4'' custom drive screw, 5-10 times longer than similar designs, which with special equalizer washer provide smooth operation. Jaws designed and sized to property fit hub applications and is quickly located on the puller bar without the use of fasteners. The puller is specifically designed to apply maximum force with minimal effort from an impact gun. -- All parts made of solid carbon steel, proprietary heat treating extends its life while anti-rust finish resisting impact, corrosion and deformation.
Mold-blown plastic case is convenience to carry and storage. Keeps all tool great and organized. If your item is defective, incorrect, arrived damaged, is lost, or is missing parts, please send us. Describe the nature of the problem (please include pictures if possible). You will be taken care of as quickly as possible and there will never be any additional cost to you.A Full Kit of 6575 Hub Grappler. A must have tool, providing a complete solution for servicing wheel hubs and bearings on vehicle without removing the steering components or knuckle. Allows to directly service wheel hubs and bearings, which eliminating unnecessary alignments or the use of a shop press, cutting service time dramatically.
Upgared design, the Jaws are designed and sized to property fit hub applications and can be quickly located on the puller bar without the use of fasteners. The 3/4'' custom drive screw coupled with the special equalizer washer provides smooth operation while the proprietary heat treating extends its life 5-10 times longer than similar designs. Can minimize save your time and energy thanks to that the puller is specifically designed to apply maximum force with minimal effort from an impact gun. Tie Rod/Inner Bearing Race Puller Remover. Use on imported and domestic, front or rear wheel drive vehicle, cast or stamped-steel steering knuckles.
Handles up to 5 tons of knuckle twisting force. Jaws, once tightened, won't slip on the knuckle. Can be used to separate lower ball joints on import FWD & RWD vehicles. Jaws spread to 3 inch and have a 4 inch reach.Replace to OTC 6575, Quality & Function Meet or Exceed OEM Specifications. Advanced CNC machined carbon steel with black anodized finish, strong and durable, anti-impact and anti-corrosion. High precision and hardness to provide a much longer service life.
Blow molding plastic case, convenience to transportation, storage and carry, keeping all tool great and organized. Whenever you can easy to get it when you need them. Complete solution for servicing wheel hubs and bearings on vehicle without removing the steering components or knuckle, eliminates unnecessary alignments or the use of a shop press. Includes tie rod/ball joint tool and two Ford axle installers.
Jack up car with jack stands and chock the wheels. Disconnect speed sensor and brake wear indicator bracket. Loosen axle nut (36 mm). This is best done with the rotor still on as you apply the parking brake to hold the rotor while you torque the nut off. Use a 3/4" drive 40" long breaker--came off like butter.
Alternatively, you could leave the caliper on and have someone step on the brake. On a front bearing job, you can slide a drift pin through the caliper window and into the vanes of the vented rotor. After axle nut is off, remove rotor. Remove parking brake hardware and disconnect parking brake cable. This requires pinching of some tabs on the plastic retainer that holds the cable to the spindle. These are located inside the recess where the cable comes into the spindle. If doing front bearing, this step does not apply. Remove tie rod nut (22 mm) and disconnect tie rod. Use the puller with the Grappler kit (pics 1 & 2). Remove upper control arm nut (19mm) and disconnect upper control arm (pic 3).This came off with several gentle taps with a hammer--no need to pulverize it. Good time to inspect ball joints. This required the puller tool (pic 4). This is a good time to clean all debris off the speed sensor notches on the axle.
Reinstall upper control arm and nut. This is to hold the spindle steady while extracting/installing hub and bearing. Using the Hub Grappler tool (pics 5-10): Extract hub. The outer race of the bearing will come off with the hub. Use the kit puller to remove the outer race from the hub.
Clean bearing housing of all loose dirt and rust. Reassemble everything in reverse order.
Careful to align axle teeth with hub teeth. Torque on upper control arm nut is 50 Nm (Torquing it would require a crowfoot wrench). Torque on tie rod nut is 55 Nm (This one is easily torqued with standard socket).
Used blue loctite on control arm and tie rod nuts, which are plastic-insert lock nuts. Torque on axle nut is 490 Nm YES 490 Nm! , and this is best done after reassembling parking brake/rotor to keep the hub from spinning. Good idea to temporarily reinstall wheel lugs to hold rotor to hub when torquing axle nut. For front bearing job, use drift pin in rotor vanes to keep hub from spinning. Install sensors and brake calipers. Clean the speed sensor well. It tends to accumulate gunk and rust. I replaced my pads with ceramics since I had the calipers off.Shouldn't need alignment if things were aligned prior to procedure.